Updated August 6, 2017 3:15 PM
By Peter M. Gianotti
Restaurant openings this season plus the return of promising kitchens that arrived last year are packing the easternmost village on Long Island, not just with beach-bound vacationers and casual fishermen, but with diners looking for much more than steamed lobster.
They're finding it, too. ...
After decades in Montauk, Dave's Grill closed last year, but that's not the end of Dave's. More casual in style and even better in cuisine is Dave's Gone Fishing, which opened last summer. Like the Grill, Gone Fishing features the full-flavored work of chef David Marcley, who owns the restaurant with his wife, dining room manager Julie Marcley.
Dave's Gone Fishing takes over the waterfront location previously occupied by Fishbar, once one of Long Island's top seafood restaurants. The new Dave's takes over that mantle, too, at the tiered establishment, which now includes a cozy lounge that resembles a library. There's both indoor and outdoor seating.
The Marcleys' emphasis is on small plates, though there are larger ones, too.
Essential choices include the house version of cioppino, the Italian-American-style fish stew associated with San Francisco. At Dave's, it's made with lobster, scallops, shrimp, clams, mussels and squid. Also mandatory is the delectable, warm, butter-poached lobster on a toasted bun - a lush roll.
And Dave's penne Bolognese using lobster is terrific. Its competition comes from the baked-and-stuffed half lobster, linguine with local clams, and cornmeal-crusted squid with Sriracha sauce and basil aioli.
For diners not enamored of seafood, the honey-hoisin-roasted spare ribs and the grilled hanger steak with chimichurri and roasted fingerling potatoes are recommended.
Dave's Gone Fishing is open six days from 5:30 p.m. It's closed on Wednesdays. As was the case at Dave's Grill, there are no formal reservations, but parties of six to eight (the maximum accepted) may go on the restaurant's waiting list by calling after 5:30 p.m. on the day requested. Major credit cards are accepted.
July 28, 2017 4:28 PM
By Peter M. Gianotti, Corin Hirsch, Erica Marcus and Pervaiz Shallwani
During the past five years, seafood restaurants on Long Island have improved with the certainty of the tides. Yes, you'll still find flounder stuffed with crabmeat and salmon dutifully blackened. But now, there's much more to the catch, from a new generation of oyster bars to remade classics. Here's Newsday's list of the top 10 seafood restaurants for 2017.
Dave's Gone Fishing (467 E. Lake Dr., Montauk): Last summer, Dave's Gone Fishing opened at the former site of Fishbar. It's the work of Dave and Julie Marcley, who'd operated Dave's Grill in Montauk for decades. Their new, waterview venture is less formal and full of flavor. Recommended: smoked tuna spread, mussels Provencale, butter-poached lobster roll, stuffed and baked lobster, onion-and-potato crusted flounder, linguine with local clams, cioppino with lobster, scallops, clams, shrimp, mussels and calamari. More info: 631-688-9190